The House at Pooh Corner & Other Curious Places to Stay in the Polish Mountains
Although the Polish mountains offer plenty of attractions, they are rarely associated with interesting architecture. There are, however, many extraordinary buildings nestled among the snowy peaks. What’s more – many of them are open to overnight guests.
The Polish mountains are incredibly varied. How can we compare the pastures of the Bieszczady with the snowy peaks of the Tatras or the rocky Sudety? The south of Poland offers something for both enthusiasts of peaceful strolls and lovers of competitive mountain climbing. Whether seeking rest or adventure, both types of visitors need somewhere to stay overnight. And when searching for accommodation, how about making architecture one of the criteria?
Zdrój Wojciech, Lądek Zdrój
Lądek Zdrój is one of the many health resorts in Kotlina Kłodzka. Each resort offers its own health benefits, and in each, one may encounter architectural curiosities. One of the most picturesque of these mountain resorts is probably Zdrój Wojciech in Lądek Zdrój. Its beginnings date back to the middle of the 17th century; the building, now home to a health resort, was raised in the neo-baroque style in the second half of the 19th century. Today, the structure still serves its original function; inside, one can find hotel rooms and a physiotherapy centre with a round ornate thermal pool and marble bathtubs. Upstairs there’s a pump room where one can taste the water from the ‘Zdzisław’ and ‘Maria Skłodowska-Curie’ intakes. They’re sulphide-fluoride waters, which can improve your skin, lower your cholesterol levels, flush heavy metals out of your body, and accelerate bone healing. Put simply, they’ll keep you looking and feeling young.
After reaching a few of the nearby peaks (such as the 1424-metre Śnieżnik), it’s worth taking a rest in Lądek Zdrój and regenerating surrounded by the majestic architecture of Zdrój Wojciech.
Vlla Koliba, Zakopane
Villa Koliba is designed by Stanisław Witkiewicz and reflects the Zakopane Style he was instrumental in developing. Constructed between 1892 and 1893 for the enthusiast of Zakopane, landowner and collector Zygmunt Gnatowski, it didn’t serve him for long; the owner died childless in 1906, and the house was sold. After that, it frequently changed owners and functions (at various points becoming, for instance, a holiday home and a children’s home). Over time, its interiors were transformed and it lost the majority of its fitting. Thankfully, in the middle of the 1980s, almost a century after it was built, Villa Koliba became the property of the Tatra Museum. After the necessary renovations and adapting the house to its new functions (the interiors were arranged by Władysław Gasior), the building has been home to the Museum of Zakopane Style since 1993. Although the oldest villa made in the Zakopane Style cannot accommodate anyone overnight, it can be explored; tourists can view not only the renovated interiors but also plenty of relics of this extraordinary architectural style.
Patria Sanatorium, Krynica Górska
The stylish building of the Patria Sanatorium is one of the most interesting and valuable instances of modernist architecture in its ‘rich’ version. The designer of the building, Bogdan Pniewski, skilfully combined raw geometry and simple rhythm enforced by the modernist style with the elegant fitting required of a luxury guesthouse. Patria was built from 1932 to 1934 as a hotel by the singer Jan Kiepura. It was frequently visited by admirers of the musician, who is said to have given concerts from the guesthouse balcony.
Patria – with its 80 hotel rooms still available to visitors – boasts not only well-preserved marble floors and stairs but also glass modernist chandeliers and pre-war electric light switches. The building, state-owned since the end of World War II, has ceaselessly served the function of a sanatorium, offering not only accommodation but also a range of health treatments.
House at Pooh Corner, Wetlina mountain pasture, Bieszczady
True lovers of mountain hiking will always value mountain shelters over even the most stylish hotels. Polish mountains offer plenty of the former, and climbers of higher and lower peaks have their own rankings of favourite huts and retreats.
One of Poland’s best-known mountain shelters is the House at Pooh Corner, located at the altitude of 1228 metres above sea level on Wetlina mountain pasture, under the Hasiak rock. The shelter, built of wood and stone, was erected right after World War II. Although it offers quite a low standard of accommodation, it has a wide circle of enthusiasts who can’t imagine a trip to Bieszczady without a stay at Pooh Corner. After all, as with all mountain shelters, it’s not just the inside that counts, but first and foremost the people who create the atmosphere of the place.
Sanctuary of the Holy Cross Wood Relic, Święty Krzyż, Świętokrzyskie Voivodeship
As early as in the 11th century, Bernardine monks settled on the top of the Święty Krzyż Hill in Poland’s oldest mountains – the Świętokrzyskie (Holy Cross). According to legend, prior to their arrival, the first church on 595-metre mountain was built by Dąbrówka, the wife of Mieszko I (the ‘founding father’ of Poland) – of that, however, there’s no proof. Having settled on that rocky peak, the Benedictine monks built an abbey, which for centuries remained an important religious centre and a well-known sanctuary (home to relics of the Holy Cross).
Extended and rebuilt over hundreds of years, the sanctuary on Święty Krzyż is now a highly valuable heritage building where one can find objects from different periods, from Gothic through Baroque to classicist.
In 2014, the monks running the sanctuary had the northern wing of the monastery renovated. This part of the building now offers rooms for guests, and therefore tourists can not only admire the monumental and scenically located heritage building complex, but also stay there for longer periods of time.
President’s Castle, Wisła
If you really want to be able to spend your holidays in one of the most picturesque specimens of early 20th-century architecture, it would be best if you became the president of Poland. That’s because the striking President’s Castle, built between 1929 and 1930, still belongs to the country’s highest official. Fortunately, however, a mere mortal can also book a stay in this incredibly stylish place and get to feel like a representative of a pre-war elite.
The castle, built for President Ignacy Mościcki, was designed by Adolf Szyszko-Bohusz, a prominent and extraordinarily talented architect, who was one of the key figures in the development of Polish interwar architecture. In one of the mountain passes in the Silesian Beskids, Szyszko-Bohusz created a structure that’s simultaneously picturesque and modern. His design interestingly combines castle motifs with modernist geometry and simplicity. Stone elevations, tall roofs, observation decks, and very stylish interior furnishings contribute to the building’s appeal. The scenic landscape certainly constitutes yet another advantage. The edifice is located on the north-western hillside of Zadni Groń, at an altitude of 728 metres above sea level, in a forest, surrounded by the rustle of mountain streams.
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Health & recreation complex, Ustroń Zawodzie
In 1959, Silesian authorities undertook the decision to establish a health and recreation complex spread between the towns of Ustroń, Wisła, and Szczyrk. Thinking of the constantly increasing number of workers in Silesia’s expanding plants and mines, they built guesthouses, sanatoriums, and rehabilitation centres. The most important, biggest, and most interesting architecture-wise is certainly the complex built from 1966 to 1975 in Ustroń’s Zawodzie district. It was designed by a team of architects led by Henryk Buszko and Aleksander Franta. It includes the main edifice of the sanatorium with the capacity to accommodate 800 patients, combined with a physiotherapy centre, a pump room, screening and performance rooms, stores, and sport facilities. Most important is the complex of 17 treatment and rehabilitation houses. Loosely scattered all over a hillside, they are clearly separated from the surrounding greenery with light elevations; and thanks to their characteristic pyramid shapes, when seen from a distance, they resemble rock formations emerging out of the forest. Although some of the ‘pyramids’ are now neglected, most of them serve their original function, offering accommodation to both patients and tourists.
Harnaś Hotel, Bukowina Tatrzańska
In 1971, the construction of the Harnaś Guesthouse in Bukowina Tatrzańska was completed. When designing the building, the architects Leszek Filar, Przemysław Gawor, and Jerzy Pilitowski devoted a lot of attention to making the conditions for relaxation as attractive as possible. The edifice, located on a hillside, was positioned and planned so as to make the most of the favourable location. In 1971, on the pages of the monthly magazine Architektura (Architecture), Przemysław Gawor explained:
The characteristic diagonally positioned mass is an expression of striving towards a building with guest rooms deeply penetrated by sunshine, towards prolonging the time when the loggia is used, and ensuring that the views from the insides of the rooms are as attractive as possible. Simultaneously, we achieved a favourable look of the building’s shape when seen from the street.
Trans. AP
The simple, modernist structure, with its series of loggias along the whole length of the facade, forming a dynamic mosaic of square alcoves, remains attractive to this day; a few years ago, the building was obtained by a private investor who turned Harnaś’s interior into a luxury hotel and restored the structure itself to its former splendour.
European Centre for Geological Education, Chęciny
Since 2015, the profession of geologist has been gaining popularity – thanks to geological studies, research, and fieldwork. Those interested in geology would likely welcome a visit to the European Centre for Geological Education, built on the area of the now-closed quarry. It’s a scientific-research centre established at the initiative of University of Warsaw’s Faculty of Geology and designed by WXCA Studio. The Centre is comprised of 5 buildings that, in addition to hotel rooms, contain lecture halls, laboratories, and seminar rooms.
The fact that the building is located near Chęciny is no accident – from the point of view of geology, it’s one of the most interesting regions in Europe. Moreover, there are plenty of spots here where the layers of the Earth are clearly visible or easily accessible. Thanks to its proximity to this important geological site, the European Centre for Geological Education quickly became a lively place, attracting scientists from all over the world. In addition to its scientific value, the Centre deserves attention for its architecture – very modern but also perfectly suited to its characteristic surroundings, respectful of the natural contours of the land and the local landscape.
Originally written in Polish, translated by AP, Dec 2021
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