The Rules for Eating Goose in Poland (& a Recipe)

kaczki_gettyimages-1371122070.jpg, default, Collection hand drawn ducks, photo: L Feddes/Stockphoto /Getty Images, The Rules for Eating Goose in Poland (& a Recipe)

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Warsaw, before World War I. There was a Jewish tavern on the corner of Zielna and Świętokrzyska Streets. At first glance it was like any other casual and rather inexpensive Jewish establishment in the Jewish neighbourhood called Grzybów. However, the place was renowned among theatre goers and gourmets. The former knew that it was a favourite hangout spot of the actors from the Ludowy Theatre on Fridays, the latter would also come for a delicious 'zakąska' – an appetizer or snack consumed unusually with something to drink.

The regular patrons of the tavern would order a goose, and the whole bird would be brought to their table in a big roasting pan, positively swimming in aromatic and delicious grease. A piece of bread dipped in the hot goose lard and a glass of cognac to accompany huge trunks of meat – doesn’t it sound like the ultimate indulgence?

Back then in Warsaw, there was a rule about ordering goose or duck in such places: it would always come uncut by the cook: it was possible to order either the whole bird, or half of it, so that the patrons had to divide it themselves on the table. It came from a respect for the fair trade rule in the Jewish hospitality business. A bird ordered, was a bird served, no cheating on the missing wing or leg.

Thumbnail — Grzybowski Square (Grzybów), Warsaw, photo: Maciek Jaźwiecki/AW

Roast goose is just one of the specialities of the Ashkenazi Jewish tradition, one among many as there has been yet another delicious dish called ‘Jewish caviar’, i. e. a pâté of chopped goose livers with eggs and onions. It is worth trying on a toasted slice of challah bread – homemade or, if possible, bought from the nearest Jewish bakery!

There were many recipes for goose roasts, soups and livers, as it was a very popular breed in the past among both Jews and Christians living in Poland, in spite of the fact that the birds did not lay many eggs. Yet they had other advantages from the point of view of household economy: relatively low cost in keep as they grazed the fields, could live and reproduce for many years, and were easy to transport herded and not carried. They also provide feathers which were used to make duvets and pillows – indispensable during the long and harsh winters.

Slavs who were to build their state in central Europe around the 10th century, were partial to goose meat and preferred it over chickens – at least according to the account left by Ibrāhīm ibn Ya‛qūb, a Jewish merchant and explorer from Spain. Contemporary archeologists slightly disprove his intel. Apparently, there are more hen remains than goose or duck ones being found in the oldest archeological sites. Sadly, we only have a few culinary references in the medieval primary sources, but the Golden Age of Polish literature, i.e. the 16th century provides us with some delicious recipes and interesting remarks. The elites: royal court and nobility feasted on goose stuffed with pears and plums or cooked with apples. There was also a dish of goose simmered in czernina (soup or sauce made of blood) with almonds.

In the rich, aristocratic gourmet tradition there were two types of goose: the fancy one of birds that were caged and force fed with dumplings to get them fattened and the everyday goose from free ranged birds. The force feeding of geese was a long lasting culinary tradition. The professors of the Kraków Academy did it in 1557, but their household personnel were not gifted enough and the bird choked on dumplings a day before the function in planning. Zofia Moraczewska, socialist politician who became one of the MP’s in the 1919 Polish Parliament, had them in her suburban villa in Sulejówek near Warsaw in the 1920s as well.

Goose meat tastes the best in autumn, and traditionally, animals were slaughtered before December. That way people needed not to worry about feeding them through winter and the meat could be prepared for storing as delicious cold cuts called półgęsek – the goose breast was marinated, smoked and served skin-on. It was an emblematic cured meat for the aristocratic culinary delicacies: you will find półgęsek next to the ham and tongue being served for gentleman at a lavish breakfast served for Adam Mickiewicz’s characters of Pan Tadeusz.

Today in Poland there is a goose feasting revival. After World War II local consumption declined, although the geese from Poland are holding a strong position on foreign markets – for example in neighbouring Germany. Hence the campaign was launched to reintroduce old Polish goose to new Polish tables. It is called Gęsina na Świętego Marcina (Goose meat on St. Martin Day). In the Roman Catholic tradition, it is a holiday celebrated on 11 of November. It coincides with the old custom of slaughtering birds before winter, and also with the remembrance of the end of the Great War in 1918, which in Poland is celebrated as the National Independence Day since the 1930s.

One last piece of advice for gourmets planning to visit Poland: do not worry if you happen to come before or after November, as there are many goose dishes served in restaurants located in the Northwest part of the country all year long, as it is considered one of the culinary heritage products there. You may be particularly interested in the Goose Culinary Trail in the Kuyavian-Pomeranian region.

Goose stuffed with fruits, a recipe by Hanna Szymanderska (Kuchnia polska. Potrawy regionalne [Polish cuisine. Regional dishes])

Ingredients:

1 goose (3-4 kg)

1 spoonful of dried marjoram

salt, peppercorn

4-5 cloves of garlic

Stuffing:

2 big apples

100 grams of dried apricots

50 grams of raisins

4 dried figs

2 spoonfuls of dry white wine

2 teaspoonful of nuts, finely chopped

¼ teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon

½ teaspoonful of marjoram

1 teaspoonful of honey

Butter for roasting:

3 spoonful of butter

lemon juice and lemon zest

a pinch of sugar

50 grams of gin or Żubrówka (alcohol) to be added during the roasting

Meat preparation: mix chopped garlic with salt, pepper and marjoram, rub the bird (inside and outside) and leave it for 1-2 hours in the fridge. Meanwhile prepare the stuffing: raisins and apricots soak in white wine. Peel 2 apples, leave the seeds out and cut them in big chunks. Slice figs and soaked apricots and mix them with apples and raisins. Add marjoram, cinnamon, a pinch of salt, nuts, and honey. Then, stuff the bird (seal it with toothpicks to keep the stuffing inside).

Then prepare butter mix for roasting by mixing butter with sugar, lemon juice and zest and rub the bird with it. Next, put the goose on the roasting pan, cover it and insert into the preheated oven for ca. 2 hours. Remember to check it while roasting, adding more butter and switching the bird’s sides. By the end of the roasting, take the cover off, add liquor and roast it for ca. 40 min more in a hot oven (200-220 °C).

Serve it with apples quarts baked along with the bird, potatoes (fried on goose fat) and cabbage simmered with raisins.

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