Let’s get back to music. Dębicki, listening to Romanian dances and songs, immediately concluded they had Slavic roots. He suggested renaming the Romanian dance hora to ‘chora’, asserting it looked like it originated in ancient Slavic forest rituals, namely the ‘chorowody’ danced around bonfires lit up for Kupala Night. He said the fact the Romanian songs were ‘lovely’, ‘nostalgic’ and ‘melancholic’ was proof of their the Slavicness:
No Latin nation has ever sung with such life!
He claimed Polish musicians ought to immediately start studying these melodies. His argument is rather inconsistent though – in the next paragraph, he says he heard ‘Italian-Greek’ echoes in them.
Interestingly, just two years before Dębicki’s book was published, Baruch Agadati (1895-1976), a dancer born in the now Moldovan city of Tighina, adapted the hora into choreography for workers’ theatres in Palestine under British Mandate. Decades later, it would become a symbol of Hebrew culture.
In the spa town of Mehadia, the delegation of journalists listened to a military orchestra. Among the pieces performed were the Polish anthem, ‘Polish Songs’ by the German composer Hans von Bülow, ‘Minuet’ by Ignacy Jan Paderewski, the polonaise attributed to Michał Kleofas Ogiński, and Romanian folk melodies. In Bucharest, Dębicki spoke with a theatre director, asking him about who the most famous Romanian artists were in each field. George Enescu, Alfred Alessandrescu, Stan Golestan and Dimitre Cuclin were all mentioned, but strangely, Ciprian Porumbescu was not, someone who Dębicki would undoubtedly have noted down as Cyprian Gołębiewski. It seems this representative of Bucharest’s cultural world likely favoured creators trained in French musical centres, overlooking those associated with the multicultural Bukovina...
An entirely different experience met Silesian journalist Janusz Primula at the turn of the 21st century. In the article Ciprian Porumbescu – Cyprian Gołębiowski (1853–1883): A Romanian Musician with Polish Roots, Adam Gałkowski recalls an anecdote published by Primula on the portal Musiq.pl. While in a Romanian restaurant, the journalist was asked where he was from. When he replied that he was Polish, the restaurant’s band played a piece by Porumbescu called Ballad for Violin and Orchestra (Romanian: Baladă pentru vioară și orchestră). Primula described it as ‘moving’ and ‘beautiful’:
Slavic soul pours out of it. It’s a shame he didn’t manage to compose more and is remembered today as a one-piece composer, but what a piece that is...
In reality, Porumbescu composed many works, including the first Romanian operetta and a song that is now Albania’s national anthem.
Let’s go back for a moment to earlier times. In the 14th century, Bukovina was taken over by the Principality of Moldavia. In the 16th century, it was conquered by the Ottoman Empire, and in the 18th century, by Austria. The region was part of the trade route connecting the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth to the Black Sea. The inhabitants of Bukovina were predominantly Vlachs and Ruthenians, but there were also Germans, Jews, Roma, Hungarians, Poles and Armenians. In 1786, fourteen years after the first partition of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, the Habsburg-occupied Galicia was merged with Bukovina. This marked the beginning of large migrations of Poles to the region.
The first site associated with Poles was the salt mine in Cacica, after 20 families of engineers were brought there from the mines in Bochnia and Wieliczka. Shortly afterward, Polish highlanders from Čadca (today in the Žilina region in Slovakia) also settled in Bukovina. By the mid-19th century, larger Bukovinian cities like Suceava and Chernivtsi (today in Ukraine) attracted both intellectuals and the emerging working class. Descendants of Poles still live in Bukovina today, though it is now divided between Romania and Ukraine.
Polish Radio’s classic series of Polish folk music includes the album Polacy na Ukrainie, w Rumunii i Kazachstanie (Poles in Ukraine, Romania and Kazakhstan), which includes recordings made during three expeditions to Romanian Bukovina in 1996. In the notes accompanying the album, Anna Szewczuk-Czech and Piotr Kędziorek write:
Polish villages in Romanian Bukovina are more isolated [than Polish villages in Ukrainian Bukovina – editor’s note], located in hard-to-reach mountain valleys. In the villages we visited, inhabited by the [descendants of] Čadca highlanders (Solonețu Nou, Poiana Micului, Pleșa), the Polish language can be heard everywhere, even spoken by small children. Wedding ceremonies often take place in an archaic form, lasting three days and preceded by the weaving of a wedding wreath (Pleșa). However, as the people we interviewed say, such as Zyta Chachla: “Everything’s different now. Grandpa used to wear long linen trousers, a sheepskin vest, a hat, and carried a bag with flint inside. Weddings only happened in winter. The bride wore leather moccasins and a woollen jacket. Now we prepare all sorts of things, but back then, it was just potatoes, rye bread, cabbage and meat.”