All Saints Day Soup
While Halloween is a relatively new tradition in Poland, mostly observed in bigger cities and among younger people, All Saints Day is an important day in Poles’ calendar. It is the day to visit cemeteries, light candles on one’s relatives’ graves and meet with family members from all over the country. Such gatherings in Poland almost automatically translate into family meals and the traditional way to start such an All Saints Day meeting is… a tripe soup. The tradition dates back to the times before refrigeration, when the first of November was the last big occasion to meet with family before Christmas. Since the holiday is celebrated in late fall, it used to coincide with the traditional time of slaughtering animals before winter. And since offal needs to be eaten first, it was traditionally served for this special dinner. While the idea of eating tripe might be controversial to some (though similar dishes appear in many European cuisines and it is perfectly safe and hygienic), there is now a well-established vegetarian option – mushroom 'tripes'. Whatever version one goes for, it is one of most spicy Polish soups, served with a lot of marjoram, but also powdered ginger and paprika, and as such is a throwback to the traditional, country house cuisine, which was very heavy and rich in spices. The soup should be eaten with bread rolls and is now available all year round, but usually at restaurants aimed at Polish people rather than those in the tourist areas.
The Army Soup
Split-peas soup, photo: Beata Zawrzel / East News
While the army may not be, strictly speaking, an occasion, the split-peas soup or grochówka is associated with the armed forces, but also with road-side mock-army camps where it is served from decommissioned field kitchens, and with army-themed picnics organised throughout summer all around Poland. It is usually served in big bowls, eaten in the fresh air among camo-styled decorations and thus retains its traditional image. The soup itself is in fact more like a meal in a bowl: it is prepared by soaking dried yellow split peas and then cooking them with potatoes, marjoram, allspice and lots of kiełbasa sausage (some also add lard to make it even more of an energy-booster). It tastes fantastic outside, but many Polish people also cook it in their homes, and often serve it with thick slices of dark bread to make it their whole dinner.