Alternative 11:30 ‘VV – Vintage Villas’
If water sports and artificial lakes are not your cup of tea, we suggest that you head in the opposite direction. Instead of going east to Lake Malta, go west towards Sołacz – the most beautiful villa district in this part of Poland. From its very beginning, it was planned as a district for the elite, thus the majority of the buildings are luxurious single-family villas built in the early 20th century. This is definitely a place where the clock has stopped, and it has little to do with other parts of fast-developing and modern Poznań, but is overwhelmingly classy and enjoyable. To make it even more incredible, the most beautiful of many Poznań’s parks is located in Sołacz, called Sołacki Park. It is kept in an English style, and has beautiful ponds where gentleman used to take their dames on boats for water dates and after-tea recreation. So calm, so charming – you’ll love this place, no doubt.
13:30 ‘Porta Posnania’
From the north bank of Lake Malta or from the centre of Sołacz, you can take buses that will bring you back to the city centre again. This time we will guide you to Ostrów Tumski (archaic Polish for Cathedral Island), a place where one of the very first settlements of the Polish state was founded and where the first Polish metropolitan cathedral was built. For the purpose of making one's discovery of Ostrów Tumski more exciting, the Porta Posnaniawas built. Poznań's Porta Posnania (the heritage centre of Cathedral Island) is an extraordinary facility. It is the first institution which “interprets heritage”, using multimedia and interactive devices to tell the history of Cathedral Island. This unusual way of narration, without museum pieces, was designed by Tempora, a Belgian specialist in exhibition design.
Moreover, it is the best place to acquaint oneself with the milestones of Polish history (from its very beginning with the baptism of 966, up to the present day), as the audio guided tour around Porta Posnania tells of much more than the history of Cathedral Island, and in a much wider context. Finally, Porta Posnania is a stunning piece of modern architecture, so with all these things in its favour it is simply a must-see. After a visit to Porta Posnania (lasting approximately 2 hours), you will cross the river Cybina using a beautiful modern bridge, and enter Cathedral Island to have a look at the places you have just learned about, such as the stunning Poznań Cathedral.
16:00 Dinner Time
You’ve been walking a lot, so it’s high time for a well-deserved dinner. There are three options this time, but whatever you choose, you’ll be delighted with our recommendations. So just let us present the highlights of Poznań's culinary culture in alphabetic order.
Dragon (near the Old Market's Main Square)
Dragon is a great restaurant, but it is also a music club with notable live shows every week; and even a café and a drink bar to boot. Its maze-like architecture will surely make you get lost during your first few visits but it’s actually a good thing – it's worth staying here a while longer. It is home to delightful slow food signature dishes served on three floors, a terrace, and a patio, with rooms hidden here and there. Perfect for any season (they always incorporate seasonal products in their menu), and frequented by locals.
Papierówka
This is not just the art of cooking, this is Art, with a capital ‘A’! No fixed menu, signature dishes only. Papierówka is the Polish word for an early apple, therefore apples are omnipresent here. You can indulge yourself with simple but tasty compote, and one of the dishes of the day always involves apple somehow. Fusion cuisine with a Polish touch – simply captivating! The kitchen is open to the dining room so in addition you can watch their master chefs at work.
17:30 ‘Lofts’
Time for the one last long walk in Poznań, and time to discover some of the lofts which are becoming the city’s trademark. No matter where you go, you’ll surely come across extraordinarily refurbished factories and stores which now house galleries, concert venues or even shopping malls.
The biggest and most popular of them is Stary Browar (Old Brewery) – a centre for shopping, arts and business. Because its main investor was Grażyna Kulczyk (one of the most prominent private art collectors in this part of Europe), it offers the unique blend of an exclusive shopping arcade with an art gallery.
Another loft associated with Grażyna Kulczyk is her Art Stations Foundation main office. The gallery itself is regarded as one of the most interesting in Poland. Piotr Sarzyński from Polityka weekly wrote of it:
They don’t spoil the visitors with the number of exhibitions but every time they open one, it is worth visiting. These are mostly variations on Grażyna Kulczyk’s collection, but this isn't a shame, as this is a very decent collection. Highlights of 2013: Jenny Holzer, Buckminster Fuller, Uklański, Kantor, Opałka... not bad!
Two more lofts are not used everyday but from time to time host some major cultural events (such as the Malta Poznań Festival). These are Stara Rzeźnia (Old Butchery) and Stara Gazownia (Old Gas Works). They offer unparalleled ambience and a space for outdoor plays or concerts.
19:30 ‘Before’
After that last walk, you probably need some rest and to prepare yourself for the remaining part of the evening. This is when you should direct your feet to the Berlin-like Taczaka Street, famous for its cafés and bars. Obvious recommendations are the venerable 15-year-old Klubokawiarnia Nocna Kisielice (formerly Kisielice) and its daytime version Taczaka 20. They offer what the best coffee shops offer and are owned by Michał Marcinkowski, who is the author of and driving force behind the revitalisation of Taczaka Street. Beer fiends cannot miss Ministerstwo Browaru (Ministry of Breweries), which offers all imaginable kinds of regional and imported beers.
21:00 ‘Concert’
Poznań is a city full of music, so our recommendation for the main part of the evening to go to a concert. Since 2013, Poznań has hosted the biggest Polish music showcase – the Spring Break Showcase Festival, which includes approximately 50 concerts in 6 venues over 3 days, and immediately became the most awaited musical event of 2015.
To listen to some good music you have to check the programme for the exact day that you’ll be in Poznań, but check out SQ, Eskulap, Meskalina, Dragon, Pod Minogą and CK Zamek first – you are very likely to encounter the biggest stars of world and Polish music in their calendars.
23:00 ‘After-party’
After a thrilling concert, you will need a place to discuss it with your friends, and probably drink a bit (and then, even more probably, dance). Clubs such as Meskalina (Mescaline), Dragon and SQ almost always organise after-parties so you don’t have to move anywhere. Other than that, you could use this very last chance to see one more place in Poznań, and visit Opcja (Option) or the underground clubs of Projekt LAB or 8 bitów (8 bits). Remember that this is just 2 and a half hours from Berlin, so Techno culture is pretty lively here, and it is no surprise to see some of the Berlin stars behind the DJ booth.
So this is your Poznań: lovely, vintage, modern, hipster, friendly, picturesque and arty. One day is definitely not enough to get the most of it but not sparing this time when in Western Poland is an unforgettable mistake. Go there and we promise you’ll love it!
Author: Wojciech Oleksiak with massive help from Maciej Radzikowski, who makes the author feel half-Poznanian every time he visits Poznań, September 29th 2014.