Senses, a Warsaw restaurant run by Andrea Camastra, has just received a Michelin star in the new edition of the Michelin Red Guide: Main Cities of Europe 2016. After Atelier Amaro, it is the second restaurant in Poland to be able to boast of the prestigious honour.
This year's edition, which was revealed on 9th March 2016, includes a record number of Polish restaurants: 52 venues. Michelin inspectors appreciated 28 restaurants from Warsaw and 24 restaurants from Kraków. Thirteen of them were included in the guide for the first time. It is worth remembering that there are several different distinctions bestowed by Michelin: the famous stars for exceptional quality of food (one to three stars), cutlery symbols for décor, service and ambience (one to five fork & spoon sets), and the Bib Gourmand for ‘exceptional good food at moderate prices’.
Senses – innovative, elegant and modern cuisine
'Innovative', 'elegant' and 'modern' is how the Michelin investigators described Senses, appreciating their combination of traditional flavours with a modern approach towards food. They wrote:
As with the historic building in which it is housed, this formal restaurant connects tradition with modernity. Of the 3 set menus, most opt for the 7 course dinner to best experience cooking that is innovative, creative and at times theatrical, but also underpinned by classic Polish flavours.
The restaurant, which opened less than two years ago, is run by the charismatic chef Andrea Camastra, who previously worked at Wojciech Amaro's and Robert Sowa's restaurants. He emphasises:
Senses is about being honest and emotional about the food. Using the finest produce we are innovative and modern yet surprisingly familiar.
Meanwhile, the restaurant Atelier Amaro has kept the star it was granted last year. Its founder and chef, Wojciech Modest Amaro, serves Polish cuisine in a modern and surprising way. Besides Senses and Atelier Amaro, 26 other Warsaw restaurants were included in the guide. There are seven debuts: Strefa, Dom Polski Belwederska, U Kucharzy, L'Enfant Terrible, Opasły Tom, Dom Wódki, and Hoża. In the fork & spoon category, the highest ranking restaurants were Amber Room (4 symbols), Belvedere, Michel Moran – Bistro de Paris, Tamka 43, and Platter by Karol Okrasa (3 symbols).
Bib Gourmand in Kraków
In its very first mention in the guide, the Michelin inspectors have recognised popular Kraków restaurant Zazie Bistro by granting it the Bib Gourmand. Zazie is run by Daniec Myśliwiec, who has previously been dubbed Young Talent by Gault & Millau. Besides Zazie, located in Kraków's Kazimierz, there are only two other restaurants that were awarded the Bib Gourmand, both in Warsaw: Brasserie Warszawska and Butchery & Wine.
There are also a few Kraków debuts on the list: Amarylis, Pod Nosem, Bottighliera 1881, Miodova, and Hana Sushi. In the fork & spoon category, the best restaurants remain Copernicus, Trzy Rybki, and Wentzl (3 symbols).
Written by Magdalena Kasprzyk-Chevriaux, translated by OK, 10 March 2016